We all read lots of books about China and talked to the Chinese students we knew from Baoding and elsewhere who were studying here. It seemed clear: something big was happening in China, and I wanted to see it for myself. Had I known just how big, I wouldn't have gone. Shanghai and Peking looked brighter and richer than I remembered them, but Baoding was to be the real test. I love Baoding, but I have to admit it is ugly and very dull. Yet there was no question: even in drab old Baoding things were different. To begin with, there were doorbells. When we visited an old friend and rang her bell, it played the first eight bars of Beethoven's "Fur Elise." Apartment interiors used to look like service stations, unpainted concrete with minimal furnishings. Now there were bright colors, carpets, decorative objects, and occasionally musical instruments. Clothing was bright too, and Mao jackets were no longer common. A boy and a girl might walk together; they might even hold hands!