魔法长袍的制作
A traditional Wizard’s“Ankh” robe is very easy to make. Colors are associated with the Wizard’s Path (see “Color-Coded Wizardry” in 1.III, “Foundations of Magick”), and also with one’s grade. Apprentices traditionally wear white robes; Journeymen wear robes of their path color; and Adepts wear pretty much anything they fancy, including robes with stars and astrological symbols. So you should make your first robe of white fabric. Then you can wear your colored tabard over it that you made earlier. Although I prefer the basic design I am describing here, Simplicity pattern #5840-A,B also has two somewhat different open-front robe designs, for male and female. And Simplicity 9887-A,B is quite spectacular!The length should be twice the distance from your shoulder to the ground. As with the tunic,foild the material in half from end to end, and then again from side to side so you will have a quarter up.Mark an armpit point (A) about a foot down from the top fold, and far enough out from the centerfold to fit comfortably over your chest. (This is important!The main mistake people make on robes is failure to allow adequate chest space.) Inhale and measure your chest at its widest point, add 10% comfort room, and divide by 4 to give the distance out from the centerline to point (A). Then mark a line (A-B) from that point to the bottom outside corner (B) and another line (A-C) to the middle (C) of the outside edge. Then round off these lines and the armpit angle (A), and add at least an inch for the seam. If you are very large, the amount cut away here can be reduced proportionately;see lines 1-3 in diagram. Pin and cut out along the lines, and sew up the cut edges (I like to also sew halfway up the outside of the pointed “butterfly”sleeves for pockets).As with the tunic, the neck-hole is a simple “T”cut along the top fold, with the vertical cut in front.The horizontal cut should total 8” across, but the vertical cut is up to you (how much of your chest do you want to expose?). You might make it short at first, as you can always cut it deeper after you try it on; but you can’t make it shorter again! The hood is made out of two of the leftover pieces cut out earlier. These are then cut square across the bottom at 9”. The back can be rounded, as I show here, or pointed if you cut along line 4 (a very popular design). The crucial dimension is that the neck of the hood must match the horizontal cut of the neckhole in the robe, to which it will be attached; so each piece must be 9” across the bottom.After you sew the hood and robe together, fold back and hem all your edges (put it on, belt with a cord, and have someone pin up the bottom to ankle length). Arms outspread, the completed robe with hood will form an “Ankh.” Trim may be attached at the ends of the sleeves, around the front of the hood,or around the bottom of the robe; and leftover materials may be used to add outside panels, pockets, etc