Hence our old city of YUNG P'ING FU,quiet,sleepy,modest as she is,occupies in the mind of the Chinese scholar to-day aposition of honour and esteem that is held by comparatively few of her manygreat cities.The casual visitor ,ignorant of her history,would see but littleto interest him in her rough,uneven street:the large open spaces within thewalls might tempt him to call upon the people to lock the door lest the cityshould run out:and he would probably turn away with the feeling that he hadbeen for ten minutes or so plunged into an ancient sleepy hollow ,wherebusiness drags a weary length along and the hurry and bustle of modern life hasnot yet found its way.Not so however,the dwellers within its walls ,or theforeign resident from a far country .To these the old city possesses manycharms, and the historic imagination sees in YUNG P'ING FU the centre of atleast one worthy episode of the past and remembers that long before many famouscities of the West had sprung into being,she was the capital of a kingdom andthe scene of daring deeds.
因此这个平静,祥和,谦虚的古老城市——永平府，在中国的学者心目中比其他很多伟大的城市更能得到尊重和荣誉，休闲的游客，不知道她的历史的人，或许只看见她原始的，不平的街道而不太感兴趣（以后再有说卢龙路不平的人得反思一下了）。或许城墙内的大型开放空间，能让他感觉有一种冲动，呼吁人们要锁上门以免城市会消失：或者感觉马上得离开，不然十分钟后会进入一个古老的断头谷。在生意繁忙，喧嚣的现代生活中不可能找到她的生活方式，不，然而，生活在她城墙内的居民，或者来自遥远国度的一个外国居民（估计是说作者自己，知道了城市的历史,已经被震撼过很多次，习惯了），会觉得这个古老的城市非常有魅力，她的历史迹象表明她比西方很多著名的城市出现的更早，她是一个王国和勇敢者的首都（这段说明了古城气场太强大了）。

On the occasion of this Russian visit the Prefect,a Manchu of the olden type, was asked if he possessed any armaments in the city,was asked if he possessed any armaments in the city.His answer was in the negative,but unfortunately for him and the city the visitors looked for themselves ,and in the wall tower over the wast gate found a number of ancient useless cannon and two or three pieces of modern artillery.The delay the old Prefect was beaten five hundred blows in the street,and the "Hsien,"or county magistrate,received two hundred.The tower in which the guns were found was blown to smithereens, while the Hsien official was forced with his own hand to set fire to the central city tower,which to this day remains in its ruins,a silent but reproving reminder of the visit of the wild Cossacks from the north.
俄国人曾一度造访当地满族行政长官，问他城中是否有武器。官员回答说没有。结果不幸从他本人及百姓开始。 俄国人自己从城墙上发现了很多废弃的土大炮和三架新火炮。满族长官因此当街被打500大板，县长200大板。发现炮的城墙被打成碎片。县长被逼亲手点火炮打城中的塔。如今只剩城塔废墟静静的提醒后来人，来自北方野蛮的哥萨克人所犯的罪行。

Passing along the eastern arm of the city wall,you will next observe an ancient look-out tower,from which in former days men watched for the beacon lights that flashed messages between cities and provinces.That is the highest point of the wall,and is fully 200 feet above the road that was once the main channel of communication between the Chinese and Manchu capitals.Little temples ,quaint and varied ,dot the wall here and there ,the most picturesque being perhaps the Kuei Hsing Lou,or temple to the God of Literature ,built on the south wall and directly facing the examination hall,This is an open shrine of octagonal shape,the figure poised on one leg and with one arm threateningly raised on one leg and with one arm threateningly raised looking more like an ancient prophet come to judgment than a patron of the quiet, dignified men who aspire to walk in the ways of Confucius.
顺着东边的城墙走，你会发现一个古老的望军台，人们用它来瞭望烽火，以便在各个城市和省府之间起到联系。这个塔位于城墙的最高点，距离地面有两百英尺高（相当于60.95米。这条路曾是中国和满洲各个主要城市最主要的通讯渠道。各种小庙宇，古朴而各异，散布在城墙的周边。最美要数魁星楼（学士殿），建在城南，直对考试院。这是有一个开放的八角形神社，里边的雕塑举着拳头，抬脚像一个古老的判官。而不是像正襟危坐的孔圣塑像。

It may perhaps not be quite orthodox in a missionary to declare it,but it is quier true that to the man of reverent and worshipful spirit there is nothing to offend the sight in a Cinfucian temple.There may be dust and dirt,but there is also quietness and dignity,a sense of human character.And one might commune with his spirit and be still ,and pass upward to the higher communion with the Father of all men, as surely in a Confucian temple of China as in the noble pile of St.Paul's in London or the marble poem of stately Milan.In these temples twice a month the officials go to pay homage to the great sage,recently deified as the Most Holy,and save on these fortnightly and somewhat perfunctory observances,the temples are left severely alone,things to be admired and wondered at,but not used too frequently or familiarly .
也许不能像传教士那样宣布其思想是唯一正统，但孔庙实际上说明孔子的儒家思想得到很大认可。雕塑上虽有尘埃，但也不能掩盖其平静及庄严。温文尔雅君子气质。在孔庙很容易让人感觉自己正在与前圣对话。可以说孔庙在中国就像伦敦圣保罗大教堂与称为“大理石的诗”的意大利米兰大教堂。官员们过去通常每隔两周会回去参拜孔庙。但是最近人们对圣庙的参拜日渐减少和敷衍。昔日的圣殿倍显孤独，曾经被人崇拜孔子的思想也因而变的陌生。
注：圣保罗大教堂(St.Paul's Cathedral)，坐落于英国伦敦，以其壮观的圆形屋顶而闻名，是世界第二大圆顶教堂。是世界五大教堂之一，世界第五大教堂。是英国古典主义建筑的代表。
米兰大教堂（Church of Duomo），意大利著名的天主教堂，米兰大教堂用白色大理石砌成，是欧洲最大的大理石建筑，有“大理石山”之称。美国作家马克吐温称之为“大理石的诗”。

Mention of the two rivers flowing past YUNG P'ING FU leads me to speak of them more fully.The larger of the two,the Lan Ho,rises in the distant plains of Mongolia over 400 miles north -west,and flows down through some of the grandest and wildest mountain scenery that North China can show.The Ch'ing Lung (Bright Dragon) River has its source in the hills some 80 miles north of the Great Wall,through which it passes at T'ao Lin K'ou (Peach Grove Pass),and is navigable by boats for only a comparatively short distance beyond the city.Joining with the Lan River at YUNG P'ING FU ,they form a wide and swiftly running stream that empties itself into the Gulf of Pechihli,50miles fuither down.
提到经过永平府的两条河，让我稍加详述。较大的是栾河，源于西北400英里远的蒙古平原，流经中国北方境内的一些高山，野岭。青龙河源自长城以北80英里外的上山。经过桃林口。两河会流于永平府，水流变宽，行约50英里，然后在流入渤海湾。
The scenery from YUNG P'ING FU to Lanchou,a short distance of 12 miles,is of the most pleasing description ,and few more enjoyable trips can be made over such a short distance.Sheltered amid the hills is the little village of Ts'ai Chia Fen,so named from the presence of the graveyard of the Ts'ai family,for such is the translation of the local name .This is a beautiful old cemetery dating back some three hundred years,terraced in white marble and crowned with a massive white memorial arch which leads to the burying-ground proper.Surmounting the graveyard is a beautiful firclad hill:the graves are kept in excellent repair,and the place has been aptly described as bearing more resemblance to the pastoral beauty of England than anything else to be seen in this pare of China.The Ts'ai family ,in olden times,was a clan of more than local importance,the founder of the family being high in Inperial favour i the days of the Ming dynasty.When the present Manchu rulers overthrew the last Ming dynasty.When the present Manchu rulers overthrew the last Ming emperor and seated themselves on the dragon throne,Ts'ai Ta Jen transferred his allegiance to the conquerors ,and is ,when he is thought of at all,held in execration by all true Chinese patriots.Compensation,however ,is found in the fact that the Manchu records speak of him in terms of highest praise.Yet his clan has fallen on evil times.There are now no official represenatives of what was once a great family,nor have there been for many long years.Nothing remains of their ancient grandeur save the lovely cemetery among the hills and a few insignificant villagers bearing the old name.
在途经永平府至滦县县城约12英里处有蔡家坟，坐落在小山上，是当地屈指可数的美景。蔡家坟建于约300年前，有白色花岗岩拱门通向墓室，周围是美丽的红色山丘。墓地保存修缮完好。这里有着和英国田园风光类似，这在当地很罕见。
蔡氏宗族祖上不止是当地望族，在明朝深受皇帝爱戴。当满人推翻明朝建立清朝，蔡家宣布拥护清朝。这点为当时的正统爱国者所不满。但是在满清记录上却给了蔡家很高评价。蔡家自此也开始衰退。很长一段时间以后没有出现和兴盛时期一样的代表人物。只留下坟墓和一些保留该姓后裔村民记录的曾经的荣耀。

But the most conspicuous building on the Lan Ho lies 7 miles west of the city.This is the "Yi Ch'i,miao,"or the temple of Po Yi and Shu Ch'i ,already named in this chapter.This is very fine specimen of Chinese architecture ,erected to commemorate the virtues of the two famous brothers,and honoured above most in that on two separate occasions it was visited by the Emperor of his visits in a stone tablet bearing some of his wen handwriting extolling the conduct of the heroes of YUNG P'ING FU ,or more correctly speaking,the heroes of the Lonely Bamboo Kingdom.The temple stands at the foot of a group of picturesque hills,while the Lan river winds underneath the large wall that encircles the bulildings,making the situation one of great charm.There are no priests resident in this temple ,and while on occasion the officials will visit in state to worship at the dual shrine ,the temple is principally useful in that it provides quarters for a small company of soldiers set to keep the peace of the neighbourhood,In the city itself,just facing the street chapel of the United Methodist Mission ,is a memorial arch erected to the honour of the two brothers ,while a little further along the same street is an insignificant temple built with similar intent.
然而沿着滦河最受人瞩目的建筑当属伯夷叔齐庙。该庙建在城西7里远，是中式建筑良好范本。两兄弟故事为世人长久的称道。乾隆帝曾两次造访，并留字以纪念这两位永平府的英雄，或者称孤竹国的英雄。夷齐庙座落在风景如画的山脚下，滦河风吹过，使这里更显迷人。庙里没人居住，偶尔官员来庙祭拜。现在主要由一些部队用于维护当地治安。在城里教堂对面，也有纪念两兄弟的碑及更大的庙。

YUNG P'ING FU has historic interests of another kind connected with the overthrow of the Ming dynasty and the establishment of the present Manchu rule.Standing on what was once the main road between Peking and Mukden,here in 1644 was fought one of the fierce battles that helped to place the Manchus in possession of China .General Wu San Kuei ,then commandant at Shan Hai Kuan,had asked the aid of the Manchu soldiers to rid the country of the rebel Li Tse Ch'eng ,little dreaming that once beyond the pass they would not be easily persuaded to go back.The allies met the rebel forces on the banks of the river at YUNG P'ING FU ,and Li Tse Ch'eng sufferde a terrible defeat .Then came the first Manchu emperor ,Shun Chih,through the city,sleeping one night in some inn outside the south gate.But but when he passed he left behind him some of his supporters ,and YUNG P'ING FU to-day has some one hundred families of Manchus living within its walls,descendants of the wild men who followed their prince and shared his fortunes in 1644.
永平府在历史上与明朝覆灭满清建立有渊源。永平府地处连接北京与奉天交通线上。公元1644年发生一场决定满清统治中原的战役，山海关总兵吴三桂要求清兵帮助围剿李自成叛乱。梦想着清兵消灭掉李自成后一定会返回。清兵与李自成部永平府河外相遇，李自成大败。自此清太祖得以入关，他曾经过永平府，宿于南门一夜。清太祖走后，有一部分满族人自此留在城中。今天约有100户满族后裔仍居住城中享受着其祖上1644年战役积下的财富。
Much of the ancident glory has departed from our city.The coming of the iron horse,passing through Lanchou and Ch'ang Li ,and leaving the prefectural city 12miles away to the nouth among the hills,has robbed her of much of her offcial prestige and business.But nothing can rob her of the records of her past,and many of her quiet old scholars still think proudly of their city as she was thought of in the days of her prime ,and at least one Western"barbarian"has allowed some of her old-world charm to steal into his heart ,and make reflection upon his association with her a matter of constant pleasure.
永平府曾经的历史辉煌随时间渐渐远去，以后异族铁蹄踏过12英里外的处于群山之中的滦县和昌黎，继续向北进军，夺走众多财富和生意。但这些却无法摸去古城的历史，及宁静儒雅的令人骄傲的人文。至少古城使得一个来自西方的野蛮人（作者），一见倾心，并以到过此地为荣。
（第一章完）

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